decoding today’s popular ingredients so you can make better choices

I still get confused by all the different beauty products and labels on the shelves (or in my Instagram feed) even after all my years of researching and writing about this stuff. It’s overwhelming especially if you’re only listening to the companies that are marketing to you, maybe that’s by design? I’m not saying they’re lying, but companies use a lot of appealing safe-sounding words like natural, green, simple, and nontoxic to evoke a vibe. Those words have zero legal standards and are basically meaningless.

I thought we could all use a nice simple list of what is what. NO opinions, just facts. Like a glossary of terms you can come back to time and time again. I’m going to try to simplify as many science-y sounding words on the market right now, and will list what each is good for to make this list as helpful as possible. Let’s begin!

AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) 

AHAs are a group of plant and animal-derived acids used in skincare. They are water-soluble. There are 7 commonly used varieties including citric acid, glycolic acid, hydroxycaproic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, and tartaric acid. The most commonly used are glycolic and lactic. AHAs are mainly used to exfoliate.

Great for: promoting collagen, correcting discoloration from age spots and scars, smoothing lines and wrinkles, preventing breakouts, brightening, increasing product absorption  

BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) 

BHAs go deeper into the pores than AHA’s. They clean out excess oil and dead skin cells. Salicylic acid is the best-known BHA. Some formulations of citric acid can be classified as a BHA too.

Great for: clearing acne, exfoliation, and calming inflammation 

Alpha Arbutin 

Alpha Arbutin is a natural ingredient derived from the leaves of the bearberry plant. Its main use is brightening the skin and improving overall skin tone.

Great for: sensitive skin as it’s more gentle than other skin brighteners like vitamin C

Antioxidants 

Antioxidants help protect the skin’s surface from damage caused by environmental factors like the sun and pollution. Some common ones are vitamin C, vitamin E, vitamin B3, niacinamide, resveratrol, and coq10.

Great for: anti-aging and protecting against free radicals, sun, and pollution

Peptides 

Peptides naturally occur in our bodies. They are amino acids that are the building blocks of certain proteins needed by the skin, like collagen and elastin. When placed into skincare, they can promote collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and improve texture. 

Great for: supporting your skin barrier, promoting collagen, and enhancing skin texture as you age

Retinoids 

Retinoids are a derivative of vitamin A and reduce the appearance of fine lines, pigmentation, acne, and general skin aging by boosting cell turnover. Retinol (a form of Retinoid) is the over-the-counter version while Retinoids are typically the prescription grade. Both can cause significant irritation, redness, and peeling and are reckoned to start slow and/or with a doctor.

Great for: reducing fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and acne. Not recommended for women planning to get pregnant or breastfeeding.

Vitamin C 

Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is an effective antioxidant that brightens skin tone, heals wounds, reduces the appearance of aging, and hydrates the skin. Vitamin C is said to be best used in a serum as it absorbs easily.

Great for: skin brightening, hydration, and anti-aging. Vitamin C comes in many forms and you should read up on the best formulation for your skin type.

Salicylic Acid 

Salicylic Acid is a BHA that is known to dissolve debris that clogs pores and helps clear up acne. 

Great for: acne prone skin, especially black and whiteheads. Stay away if you have very dry and/or sensitive skin.

Hyaluronic Acid 

Hyraluronic Acid is found naturally in the fluids in the eyes, joints, and skin. It acts as a cushion and lubricant in the joints and other tissues. It’s too large to effectively be absorbed into the skin. Topically applied HA isn't going to increase your skin's natural stores of hyaluronic acid. It isn't going to penetrate the skin much at all. It’s power is improving the skin's hydration levels. It’s a humectant meaning it draws water to it and helps the skin to hold onto water up to 1,000 times its own weight.

Great for: overall hydration and anti-aging. Hyaluronic acid levels in the skin begin a steep decline after age 40.

Squalane 

Squalane comes from Squalene, an oily substance found in people, animals (cosmetic companies mainly use Shark Squalane), and plants. It is also used in some vaccines. It helps moisten the skin, make it more supple, and reduce fine lines and dry patches.

Great for: All skin types, it’s non-comedogenic. It can also be applied to hair to increase heat protection, add shine, and reduce breakage potential.

Niacinamide 

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that builds proteins in the skin and protects against environmental damage. It’s water soluble and works with the natural substance in your skin to help soften lines, tighten pores, and even out skin tone.

Great for: improving fine lines and wrinkles, while being anti-inflammatory which can improve acne and rosacea.

While using ALL of the above ingredients you should always consider protecting your skin from the sun, here’s a little guide…

A Mini Course on Sun Protection

Because it’s so important + the water is murky but hopefully this clears some of it up

Chemical Sunscreen: 

Chemical sunscreens absorb the sun rays and were created to block UVB rays, the ones that cause sunburn. Some versions block UVA too. Many ingredients in these have known skin irritants and degrade coral reefs. Some examples are  oxybenzone, octinoxate, homosalate, and oxybenzone (which is a particularly bad hormone and endocrine disruptor can be harmful even in small doses). 

Great for: protecting your skin from sunburn, easy application

Physical/Mineral Sunblock: 

Physical or mineral sunblock deflects the sun’s rays by sitting on top of the skin blocking both UVB and UVA, the kind that causes premature aging and is potentially cancer-causing. It is made with titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, a known skin-soother and non-toxic to the environment. These are harder to rub in. 

Great for: protecting your skin from sunburn, premature aging, and hormone disruptors 

I would recommend you do a little research on your own if you find an ingredient that sounds like it’s for you. There are so many products on the market with these ingredients and many have specific uses and important notes on what other products don’t pair well. 

jodi xx